These shrimp tacos show off the seafood and the cheese could go along

If you think seafood and cheese don’t mix, these shrimp tacos will change your mind.

Tacos gobernador, or “governor’s tacos,” are a modern Mexican classic. A mixture of shrimp and melted cheese is tucked inside a tortilla and then folded and cooked like a quesadilla.

The tacos are said to have originated in the coastal state of Sinaloa, in honor of the governor in the late 1980s. The filling can be as simple as minced shrimp sautéed with garlic, fresh cheese, and green peppers. But in this recipe from our cookbook What You Have, which relies on pantry stock to put together easy weeknight meals, we boost its flavor with 1/2 cup fresh cilantro and pickled jalapeños.

Shredded mozzarella delivers the melty texture we were looking for, as well as a mild flavor that doesn’t overpower the delicate natural sweetness of the shrimp. The recipe calls for medium-sized shrimp, but since they’re shredded, you can use large or extra-large—whichever is more convenient.

If you prefer corn tortillas over flour, substitute if you like, though you’ll need to heat them up before adding the filling so they don’t break when folded. Just place them in the hot pan for a few seconds on each side until they are soft.

Shrimp and cheese taco (ruler taco)

40 minutes from start to finish. Classes: 4

1 pound medium (41 to 50 pounds) shrimp, peeled, deveined (tails removed), cut into ¼-inch pieces and patted dry (see main note) kosher salt and ground black pepper 3 tablespoons grapeseed or other neutral oil, divided 1 small white or yellow onion, thinly sliced ​​1 green sweet or hot poblano pepper, stem, seeded and thinly sliced ​​3 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced ​​8 ounces shredded mozzarella cheese (2 cups) ½ cup fresh cilantro, plus More for serving 3 tablespoons chopped pickled jalapeños, plus 1 tablespoon brine Eight 6-inch flour or corn tortillas (see lead footnote)

Season the shrimp with 1/2 teaspoon salt and pepper. sit aside. In a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. Add the onion, red pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until vegetables begin to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Add garlic and shrimp, then cook, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are opaque, 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer mixture to a large bowl; Wipe and keep the pan. Stir cheese, cilantro, pickled jalapeños, and brine into shrimp mixture. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Divide the filling evenly among the tortillas (about 1/2 cup each) and flatten it to cover half of each tortilla. Fold in the unfilled sides and press.

In same skillet over medium heat, heat 1 tablespoon oil until shimmering. Add 4 tacos and cook until golden brown, 2 minutes. Using a large spatula, flip tacos and cook, adjusting temperature as needed, until browned on second sides, 2 to 3 more minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Cook the remaining tacos in the same way, using the remaining tablespoon of oil. Serve sprinkled with extra cilantro.

Optional garnish: lime wedges, guacamole, sour cream, or a mix

Editor’s Note: For more recipes, go to Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street at

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